There’s no better way to explore the “true” Sevilla than by means of its finest culinary tradition: TAPAS. These three routes will take you on a tasty tour through the authentic, local flavors of Sevilla.
Note on price: All of the tapas bars listed below are priced between 2-3€ per plate. In general, tapas bars vary in price. This selection is of the cheapest, most deeeelicious spots in town! So…go crazy.
Now, shall we get started?
Tour #1: El Centro (near La Catedral)
1ST STOP: Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas)
Why: This is a truly traditional tapas spot, at its finest. It’s always packed with people, so you might have to be aggressive to find your little ledge! It’s a perfect place to start your tour, as you can just feel the energy of Sevilla running through you. On a nice day (and in Sevilla, your chances are high) it’s the perfect corner spot to grab a high top outside and people watch, as the hustle and bustle of Sevilla moves around you (and your tapas)
What to order: Berenjenas con Miel (fried eggplant with honey), Bacaloa con Tomate (typical codfish marinated in tomato), Pollo con Salsa (chicken marinated in a creamy pink sauce). Note: The menu is written on a blackboard, subject to change. It’s also a bit hard to read, so bring your glasses!
Find it: Calle de Rodrigo Caro, 1A, 41004 Sevilla
2ND STOP: Casa Morales
Why: Another truly “Spanish” spot, flowing into the streets with locals. This place is a true classic, as any local will direct you here, and your tour books. The waiters are constantly breakin’ a sweat, trying to keep up with the highly energetic crowd. Check out the back room…decorated with huge, super rustic jugs of who-knows-what, and rustic ceilings. Or, stick to the front room where you’ll be surrounded by bottles of wine and legs of jamón hanging from the ceiling.
What to order: The famous Chicharrones (fried pork rinds with roasted garlic), and the Montaditos con Chorizo Picante y Roquefort (mini sandwich with spicy chorizo and roquefort cheese. YUM).
Find it: Calle García de Vinuesa, 11, 41001 Sevilla
3RD STOP: Bodeguita Casablanca
Why: I just adore this place. Maybe it has something to do with the perfect location, right next to the Cathedral. Maybe it has something to with the energy of the locals bustling about. Or maybe, just mayyyybe it has something to do with the BANGIN’ tapas…that were bought for us by a group of 5 40-year-old Sevillano locals. Now, of course a group of extremely generous (and drunk) Spaniards don’t come with a table…
What to order: Carrillada Al Vino Blanco (slow roasted pork in white wine sauce), albóndigas de sepia (cuttlefish meatballs), and the Guiso del dia; especially the Fabada if they have it (stew of the day- Fabada is an Asturian stew with beans, bacon, chorizo)
Find it: Calle Adolfo Rodríguez Jurado, 12, 41001 Sevilla
4TH STOP: Bar El Baratillo
Why: Chicos y chicas, your last and final stop of the tour #1. Why wouldn’t you want toro heads staring at you as you eat toro tapas in the Plaza de Toros? That’s right. They serve, real toro meat. On french fries! Can you get any more authentic than that? I never thought I’d say this, but toro is gooooood. Real good. Tender, flavorful….yum. However, that’s not the only thing they do right. The services is excellent, the ambience is “homey chic” (thank you toro heads), and ALL of the food is bangin’. Not just the toro.OH! And it’s a perfect place to end your tour, as they have CHAIRS. Yes, real tables, with real chairs.
What to order: Cola de Toro (toro in a rich brown sauce) and Rollito de Langostino y Bacon” (shrimp wrapped in bacon. YES.)
Find it: Calle Adriano, 22
_
Tour #2: San Lorenzo (near Las Setas)
1ST STOP: Casa Ricardo
Why: This place has been servin’ Sevillano’s since 1898. It’s the iconic bar of the famous weeklong celebration of Semana Santa, where thousands of people flood the streets between the famous Iglesia de San Lorenzo and the doors of the bar; of course, caña and croquetas in hand. When you enter, you will notice that the walls are covered with pictures of Semanta Santa, from black and white vintage shots from the early 1900’s, to last year. Oh, and another cool thing…they write your check amount on the bar with a marker.
What to order: First, make sure you ask for the (free) aceitunas, or olives. Literally, the best olives I’ve ever had; big, juicy, succulent, mmMMMmm. Then, pick from their two famous dishes: The Croquetas Caseras (fried balls with jamón and bechamel cream inside) and the Flamenquín (fried jamón and beef roll ups). Save your diet for another day.
Find it: Calle Hernán Cortés, 2, 41002 Sevilla
2ND STOP: Albacería San Lorenzo
Why: You want Sevilla home cookin’? You got it. This is a family owned Abacería, or gourmet market, that sells the best Spanish products like jamón, chorizo, cheese, bread, olives, etc. This traditional market is now an abacería AND tapas restaurant. So, you KNOW that all of their tapas are top notch; Why? ‘Cause they buy all of their ingredients from themselves! Oh, and if you sit in the back room you can watch as they prepare your food, as one of the walls is also the kitchen. (That’s right…I said SIT! This place has tables and chairs. Winninggg.)
What to order: This is where you should try your traditional cold tapas. They’ve got the best cheese and jamón iberico in all the land. They also have an incredible wine selection.
Find it: Calle Teodosio, 53, 41002 Sevilla
3RD STOP: Eslava
Why: If you ask me what my favorite restaurant is in all of Sevilla, IT’S THIS. Eslava is the perfect ending to this tapas route. Why? Well, you’ve previously experienced the very traditional Sevillano tapas, and now your ready for THE TWIST. All of their plates are based off the classics, but taken to the next level with modern gastronomic skill. It’s Spanish fusion at it’s finest. Save the best for last, right?
What to order: Yema de Huevo sobre Bizcocho de Boletus (poached egg on a mushroom sponge cake with caramelized wine reduction) , Costillas de Cerdo con Miel y Romero (slow roasted pork ribs in honey glaze with rosemary), and the award winning Cigarro de Bequer (algae and cuttlefish rolled up and fried, served with whipped brie).
Find it: Calle Eslava, 3, 41002 Sevilla
Tour Route #2 (Yes, it’s only 2 minutes!):
_
Tour #3: Triana (the “local” side of the bridge)
1ST STOP: Las Golondrinas
Why: Triana is considered the “residential, local” neighborhood of Sevilla, and this is the “residential, local” bar. Warning: You will probably be the only one speaking English.
What to order: Chipiron a la plancha (grilled squid with spices and garlic olive oil), Queso de Romero (cheese of the day changes, but if they have this rosemary cheese, get it!) and Punta de Solomillo (a slice of steak on bread)
Find it: Calle Antillano Campos, 26, 41010 Sevilla
2ND STOP: Cervecería Abacería Alboreá
Why: It’s…just…so…good…
What to order: The Bacalao con Pimiento, Mostaza y Mojo (codfish with red pepper sauce, honey mustard and mojo sauce),and the Queso de Cabra a la Miel (baked goat cheese with honey and walnuts). Tomaaaaa.
Find it: Calle San Jacinto 28
3RD STOP: O’Tapas Albahaca
Why: I always like to end my tapas tour with a twist, and amigos, this is your spot! While the classic dishes have a culinary fusion spin, that homey traditional Spanish ambience that we all know and love is not compromised. Great service, great tapas…oh, and greeeeat wine.
What to order: The locals come for the great fried fish dishes. Pick a fish, any fish. Also, Garbanzos con Setas (garbanzo beans with mushrooms) and the Albóndigas de Choco (yes, cuttlefish meatballs…I promise, they’re really good).
Find it: Calle Pagés del Corro, 119, 41010 Sevilla
…And (IF you can squeeze it in your stomach without exploding) finish your Seville tapas tour off with some Orange Spiced Wine. OLÉ!
I love, love, love this post. It brings back all the things I miss about Spain, the food, the people and the culture. Ahhh if only the art of “tapeando” was done properly here stateside…how much happier we would be. 😉
Thank you Christine!! I’m glad I could bring you back. You’re so right, “Tapeando” is truly the best…if only we could bring it to the US!! But on the bright side, now when you come back to Sevilla you have a whole tapas route planned for your return 😉
You are amazing! Unca Andy Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2015 15:27:14 +0000 To: andytennin@hotmail.com
CASIE!!!!! THE WONDEROUS CASIE!!!!! You blow me away – with each posting one can see more and more skill !!!!! I’m hungry – for the experience, the food and YOU!@!!!
I was really excited to try tour #2…but unfortunately went when it was ‘vigil’ which means no meat! I’ll have to try again another day…You might want to mention the possibility of Vigilia in your post. Since plaza de san lorenzo is home to Jesus de gran poder and it’s hermandad, there is a possibility that it happens often!
JL- thanks for sharing! I can’t believe that happened, definitely try again! That’s great advice, I will definitely add that bit of info into my post. This time of year is tricky, being that Semana Santa is right around the corner (late March- early April ). Sevilla is the home of Semana Santa, so they take this time of year very seriously! Even when it comes to the “vigil” of not eating their beloved meat. I’d try again after April 5th, when the religious celebrations are over! Thanks again for sharing your experience 🙂
This will be very useful for our trip to Andalucia in May! I can’t wait to taste it all!!!
Awesome! Can’t wait to hear what you think 🙂 And If you happen to be road tripping through Andalucia in May, here are some must-see spots on your route!
http://awanderingcasiedilla.com/2015/03/09/road-trippin-through-spain-6-andalucian-cities-in-5-days/
Thank you for schooling me on the proper way to ‘do’ tapas! I totally had a different picture in my head! I’d definitely want to get down on the tapas at Eslava! Those combos… YUM! Perfect post for me to come back to when I finally make it to España… and I will!! 🙂
Casey, so glad it helped! Eslava is truly amazing, I’d eat there 3 meals a day if I could 😀 hope you make it here soon! Cheers!
There are a lot of other places for tapas in Seville!!!
What are some of your favorites?! I’d Love to try them 🙂
What a joke jajajajaja. It is “cOstilla de cerdo” and not “castilla de cerdo”. Castilla = ¿castile? and costilla = rib. Very funny mistake.
hahaha thank you Cheli!! You caught me 😛 All fixed now 🙂