It’s easy to pass, but impossible to forget. In fact, if you’ve been in Madrid, you’ve probably passed it. It’s called Mercado de San Ildefonso. And you’re life will change the minute you step inside.
Located on the bustling pedestrian shopping street of Calle Fuencarrel, it’s conveniently placed smack dab in the middle of all the action. You know how I always preach about walking away from the tourist streets to find the best local eats? Well, San Ildefonso is THE exception. Why, you might ask?
‘Cause you’ve gotta know about it to go inside.
When you pass it, it looks like just another jamónería. That is, another one of the millions of Spanish ham bars, decorated with legs of ham flailing from the ceilings and of course, ham sandwiches galore. Now, don’t get me wrong. I love me some ham. But a girl can only eat so much ham…
UNTIL. You take another look. If you peer hard enough through the ham cones (yes, that’s right…cones of ham) ever so elegantly decorating the window, you will find a…gourmet burger station? And a wine bar? And a cheese bar? And, wait, there’s more…
LOADED BAKED POTATOES, RAW OYSTERS, GRILLED VEGGIES, SEAFOOD, CREPES…
Three floors, lots of wine, and a beautiful outdoor terrace later, you might even find…
the the perfect boyfriend? FINALLY.
Now, let’s compare. How does it stack up against the classic Mercado de San Miguel?
I told you guys all about the amazing Mercado de San Miguel in my Madrid Food Guide. As far as the Madrid food market scene goes, it’s the grandfather, or the patriarch if you will. And an absolute must-go. However, San Ildefonso is the calmer, more manageable, super trendy granddaughter of San Miguel.
The Crowds: The classic San Miguel attracts tourists and food lovers old and young, from all ends of the world. It’s a must-do on pretty much every tourist’s checklist, whether foodie or not (as it damn straight should be). On any given hour, you can expect San Miguel to be jam-packed with loud, hungry tourists- so don’t bank on getting a nice romantic table for two. On the other hand, San Ildefonso attracts the trendy, young, foodie tourists who have done their behind-the-tour-guide research– and the trendy, young, foodie locals. When I was there, I befriended two Madrileño locals who cenar, (or “have dinner”), at San Ildefonso every Friday night. When I asked them which they prefer, they replied; “San Ildefonso! What do you think, we’re guirri’s?!” Guirri means tourist. So, there ya’ have it, folks.
The Ambience: San Miguel is a ginormous one level building, packed with isles upon isles of tapas, wine, beer, sangria, coffee and dessert vendors. It’s decor is minimal, with a historical Spanish warehouse feel to it. On the other hand, San Ildefonso is a three level playground, filled with food stations, bars, and hightop tables. The space is marked by a clean white, modern, chic and minimalistic vibe, complete with gorgeous outdoor terraces. The perfect setting to kick back, relax, and drink a caña or two when the Spanish sun is a-shinin’.
The Prices: Tapas prices are about equivalent, although San Ildefonso has more options for full meals (as opposed to a la carte tapas) which, logically is more expensive. Tapas range from €1.50, to a big, full juicy burger at 9€.
The Conclusion: Go to BOTH! San Miguel for the mid-day meal, and San Ildefonso for dinny & drinks. This big juicy guys will be waiting for you…
Love the food market scene and want more? Check out: Mercado de San Anton, Mallorca Market, and Mercado de la Paz.
Get the Facts:
Mercado de San Ildefonso
Find it: Calle Fuencarral, 57, 28004 Madrid
Hours: Sunday- Wednesday 10 am- 12 am, Thursday- Saturday 10 am- 1am
Ham cones….okay, my mind is blown. Looks like a wonderful place — I’d love to sample both the ham and the cheese (and the potatoes….).
I’m greatly amused by “The Perfect Boyfriend” label. I wonder who thought that up?
Good question! But it’s a great name, as after my first sip my search for “The Perfect Boyfriend” just might be over 😛
We will never, ever, ever miss this place again, even it it is camouflaged amongst one of the most touristy of tourist locations. Thanks Casiedilla!!!! Gotta try the juicy oysters, loaded potatoes and of course some jamon 😀
Yes, yes you do!! You will not regret it 😉
Just one remark: Mercado de San Miguel was not what is now until 7 years ago or something like that. Before that, it was just the market of the neighbourhood, the only survivor of the buildings designed by Eiffel’s school. In the 70s and 80s, it serves the neighbourhood. Now it serves tourists
It is not bad per se… but it has a price. I was born very close and I was raised there, just as my father and grandfather. Old city center in Madrid is no more a place for raise a family, because city council decreased spaces for children so much that children cannot play at the street no more.
People say that most of old centers of famous European cities are being “disneylandifing”. I cannot avoid to find it deeply disturbing, since true experiences of each place cannot be packetized and need time.
Best regards,
Juan