Picture this. You are walking uphill through the old narrow streets of the Arabic barrio, Albayzín…
Your legs are tired. But your senses are suddenly awakened. You hear the sound of sizzling carne hitting the hot grill. Then, that smokey grill smell wafts over to you and attacks your nose senses. As if buying a kebab could not be any more tempting, you see someone passing you. Holding this…
Lucky for you, it only costs 3 Euros. SOLD. So, you inhale it as if you’ve never eaten before, and 3 minutes later its sauce stained wrapper finds its way into the trash (tear). But the issue is, now your thirsty. And tired. And full. So you come across a dimly lit, heavily cushioned euphoric-looking place, complete with calming Moroccan music and hookahs on every table. You realize this is what you’ve been hearing so much about…it’s an Arabic tea shop, or a tetería. You could use the caffeine, and maybe a bit of a de-stresser from a long day of #wandering. So, you go inside, find a big comfy couch to relax on, order some homemade tea, and relax with some complimentary hookah. Ohhhhhh yeaaaaa…
The time loses itself inside the tetería. And if your anything like me, you are hungry for your next snack. So you say goodbye to your friendly “tea administer,” and roll into one of Granada’s many tapas bars.
But the problem is, Granada is filled with kebab places, teterías and tapas bars. And not all of them are a bargain for your buck. But have no fear. A Wandering Casiedilla is here! Here are the best of the best #nommy places I found, for the cheapest €€€.
Eat your Kebab at: Baraka
Why: Cheapest Kebabs, for the best best best quality. The location is fabulous, right in the center of all the hub-bub of the Albayzín, but your not paying “the center of hub-bub” prices. You will find a constant flow of kebab-lovers here, starting at 11 am and running into the wee hours of the loooooong Spanish night. That must mean it’s good…
Price: 3-4 Euro’s. It’s 50 cents cheaper to get it “para llevar!”
Find it: Calle Caldereria Nueva 1, in the Albayzín
Drink your tea at: Tetería Ali Baba
Why: I tested out five different teterías. I chose this one for the service, quality of tea, and unbeatable prices. So this day I was out of cash, and like every other place in Granada, there is a 10€ credit card minimum. I actually had difficulty spending 10€’s here, because everything is so cheap! Wakid, my friendly waiter was extremely knowledgeable about the different types of teas, and very helpful when it came to explaining the many unknowns on the menu. The crepe was bomb. And so were the couches, which I learned are all directly from Morocco. Wakid explained to me that Ali Baba is the only purely Moroccan tetería in Granada, without an external Spanish influence. It’s the real deal.
Price: 3 €. Go crazy.
Find it: Calle Caldería Nueva 25, Albayzín
TEAring with joy it’s so good? Bring some home from: Rincon del Sabor
Why: I was like a kid in a candy shop. Or a tea shop I should say. This gourmet tea and “goodies” tienda carries products only from Andalucía. Obviously, specializing in their unique selection of hand blended teas, selected by the jolly store owner, Jose Luiz. However,there is much more to be bought here than just tea. A huge selection of “fresh” dried fruits, fancy blended sea salts (I bought sea salt blended with chamomile and cinnamon!), fresh spices, and gourmet cheeses. And the best part? Jose Luiz wants to give you free samples.
Price: A bag of tea usually rounds out to about 4€, as does the dried fruit and salts. But you can add more/ less according to your budget!
Find it: Calle Panaderos 6, Albayzín
Time for Tapas: The 3 hotspots
3.) Pañero in Plaza Aliatar
Once you climb all the way to the top of the Albayzin, the award awaits! The most “local” spot to tapear in the Albayzin is right here, in this enchanting plaza (although you’ll still find many tourists- remember, you’re in the Albayzin!). There are three restaurants in the plaza, all of which kinda’ blend together with their big “terrazas“, or outdoor eating space. On a nice day, you’ll almost always find the plaza crackin’ with people; from “Albaicinero” locals hanging out with their dogs and guitars while drankin’ a beer, to Spanish families soaking in the funky vibes. My favorite is El Pañero! It’s got the best free tapas and the friendliest waitresses.
Or, feeling adventurous? Head next door to the Bar de Caracoles and get some snail tapas. That’s right. I said snail.
2)La Fragua- Bar de Tapas
Work your way back down the hill from Plaza Aliatar and stop at this hole-in-the-wall nook. You want local? You got it! It’s about as authentic and non-touristy as you’ll find in the Albayzin. Oh! And their paella tapa is darn good.
Find it: Calle Horno del Hoyo 4
1.) Al Sur de Granada
Walk all the way back down the hill to the bottom of Calle Elvira. There, the most YUMMY tapitas await! This little corner restaurant/tapas bar is built on the idea of “ecological eats.” Using the most delish, fresh ingredients from the gardens of Granada, each tapa is made with SO MUCH amor. PS- Don’t forget to order a craft local beer with your tapa!
Find it: Calle Panaderos 20
Salud! To a trip well eaten…
Where have YOU eaten in Granada? We’d love to hear your suggestions!